Friday, November 20, 2009

Mostar Bosnia

Entering Bosnia was a complete 180 degree turn from the ancient ruins and relaxing beaches of the past two weeks. I arrived in Mostar Bosnia and was picked up by my hostel owner at the bus station. On the way back to her apartment that she converted into a hostel, she gave me a quick tour of the small city. It was dark when I arrived so I couldn't completely grasp all the sights and details she was pouring on me about the recent war, but the next day I got a much more sobering reality of what went on here 15 years ago.


A brief summary of the war in Mostar: In 1992 Bosnia claimed independence during the break up of Yugoslavia so the Yugoslav People's Army (Serbians) went on a 18 month siege of Mostar. Croatian forces joined with the Bosnian Army and forced the Serbs out of Mostar, but not before the Serbs shelled and destroyed all the major monuments of the city. All the while, some political moves were being made in Croatia which led to the Croatian Army turning on the Bosniaks and started to engage in mass executions and ethnic cleansing of the Bosniaks in hopes of taking Mostar for themselves. The city of Mostar was divided East (Bosnaiks) and West (Croats) and fighting went on until 1995 when NATO forces came in and ended the greater Bosnian War.



Bullet-riddled building.
This isn't a site that has been kept that way for tourists. This is what about 30% of the buildings on the front line still look like. The economy in Bosnia is still recovering from the war, which is the reason that there are still many damaged buildings.


The Old vs. The New


This building was in the process of being rebuilt.



This is the bank building held by the Bosniaks and used as a vantage point and sniper tower.


Our hostel owner recommended that we go to the top of the bank building. I was more than hesitant for reasons of respect and safety, but she assured me it was OK. I thought it was very interesting that the building wasn't tapped off and there was no signs restricting entry, it was literally open to the public. It's obvious they have a lot more to things to worry about then public safety.


Files from the the offices on the first floor.


The safe


Sniper shells in the bathroom on the top floor.


Out of all the destruction and depressing sites. It was nice to see a beautiful park in the middle of the city.


The top floor of the bank building was still covered in glass.


Looking West towards the front lines of the war.


The oldest bridge in Mostar originally built in 1566 and aptly named Old Bridge. It was destroyed by the Serbs during the war and was rebuilt from 1999-2004 thanks to funding from Spain.


A view from the bridge looking south with the Neretva River below.


During the summer months local boys will dive from the bridge if paid enough by the tourists. I hear a cigarette can be enough payment sometimes.
On the bus to Sarajevo.

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